Andy's speciality is big wall climbing and winter expeditions, which involves pitting himself against a vertical climbs of over 1000 metres (that’s two and a half world trade centres), often in temperatures as low as minus 30 degrees. Andy has scaled Yosemite's El Capitan - one of the hardest walls in America - over twenty four times, including three solo ascents and a one day ascent (18h), as well as climbing it with a paraplegic climber, his thirteen year old daughter and a blind friend. One of these ascents was a 12 day solo of the Reticent Wall, viewed at the time as perhaps the hardest climb of its type in the world, and the subject of his award winning book Psychovertical.
In 2002 he undertook one of the hardest climbs in Europe: a 15 day winter ascent of the West face of the Dru. This 1000 metre pillar pushed him and his partner to their limits and was featured in the award winning film 'Cold Haul'.
In 2014 Andy made the first ascent of the South Ridge of Ulvertanna, Antarctica, viewed by climbers as the 'hardest mountain in the world' - spending 14 days at minus thirty and colder to reach the top. One month later, battling frostbitten toes, Andy lead the TV presenter Alex Jones up Moonlight Buttress in Zion for Sports Relief, raising £1.5 million pounds.
Andy has also taken part in many expeditions, including four winter expeditions to Patagonia, a crossing of Greenland, first ascents in Antarctica, and to many nights spent suffering to mention. The stories that Andy has brought back from these expeditions have become modern classics in the climbing world and have brought new meaning to the words 'epic' and 'cold'...
It is perhaps Andy's journey from remedial student to successful climber, writer and speaker that interests his audience most. Brought up on a council estate in one of Britain's flattest cities, Hull-born Andy suffered from severe dyslexia which went undiagnosed until he was 19. One of his greatest strengths is his ability to talk about his life and his climbs in a way that is totally accessible to the non-climber and allows the audience to experience the risk and tension of big wall climbing.
Andy also works in film and TV, as a stunt safety advisor and this plays a part in many of his talks, which take you from the heights of Patagonia to the chocolaty depths of Charlie and the Chocolate factory!
"I haven’t climbed Everest, skied to the poles, nor sailed single handed around the world. The goals I set out to accomplish aren’t easily measured or quantified by world records or ‘firsts’. The reasons I climb, and the climbs I do, are about more than distance or altitude, they are about breaking barriers within myself” - Andy Kirkpatrick
The US magazine Climbing once described Andy as a climber with a “strange penchant for the long, the cold and the difficult”, with a reputation “for seeking out routes where the danger is real, and the return is questionable, pushing himself on some of the hardest walls and faces in the Alps and beyond, sometimes with partners and sometimes alone.”
More succinctly, Metro magazine claims that he “makes Ray Mears look like Paris Hilton”.
2001: Solo Reticent Wall on El Cap over 12 days, hardest route ever soloed by a British Climber
2002: Make second ascent of Lafaille route - the 'hardest wall in the alps' - on the Dru in winter over 15 days
2002: Make winter ascent of the East Face of Mermoz Patagonia
2003: Two attempts on a new route on the Troll Wall, Norway, 1st with partner, then solo. Route falls down 2 months later.
2004: Set up Speakers from the Edge.
2006: Cross Greenland with paraplegic adventurer
2007: Climb El Cap with female paraplegic climber over five days
2007: Attempt Torre Egger and Cerro Standhart in Winter while making award winning film Winter Patagonia
2008: First book: Psychovertical wins the Boardman-Tasker award
2008: Multi award winning film Winter Patagonia wins jury award at the Banff Mountain Film festival
2009: Climbed El Cap with Phil Packer MBE to raise money for Help for Heroes, hitting his target of £1 million pounds
2011: Come within 35 metres of first solo ascent on the Troll Wall, Norway after spending ten days climbing the route
2012: Second book: Cold Wars wins the Boardman-Tasker award
2012: Italian translation of Psychovertical wins prestigious Gambrinus nella sezione Alpinismo award and then the Lo speciale premio Veneto Banca, La voce dei Lettor award.
2012: Make an ascent of El Cap with my 13 year old daughter Ella for BBC series 'My Life'.
2012: Psychovertical and Cold Wars translated into German, Italian, Polish and Korean
2013: Make first winter ascent on the Troll Wall, Norway, living on the wall for 14 nights.
2013: Attempt hardest route on Eiger North Face in Winter, climbing twenty seven pitches over a week before retreating in bad weather
2013: Make 2 ascents of El Cap with blind climber Steve Bates, then help him to make a solo ascent over 5 days
2014: Multiple first ascents in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica, including South Ridge of Ulvertanna - called by some "The hardest mountain in the world"
2014: Lead Alex Jones up Moonlight Buttress, Zion, raising £1.5 million for Sports Relief
Portrait photography by Martin Hartley
All other images by Andy Kirkpatrick
(Please note the views and comments of the athlete do not represent Montane's own and are entirely their own)