NZ GB Kishtwar MACC Fund Expedition | montane 09/11/2018

NZ/GB KISHTWAR: A MACC Fund Expedition

The Anglo-New Zealand Kishtwar is a bit of a grand name for Richard “Reg” Measures’ and my (both AC members) trip to the Indian Himalaya – originally Steve Fortune from New Zealand was going to join us as well, but two months before departing, work commitments meant he was unable too.  The aims of the trip were to make the first ascent of the North Spur of Flat Top (6100m) and the South Face of the Kishtwar Eiger (circa 6000m). Ultimately we were unsuccessful in attempts on both of these... Read More

Sandy Allan MACC Fund Expedition | montane 08/11/2018
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BROAD PEAK: A MACC Fund sponsored Expedition

Sandy and Rick Allen’s ill-fated summit attempt – and incredible rescue – earlier this summer fast became one of the most famous expeditions of the season.  The expedition received funding from the Montane Alpine Club Climbing Fund, alongside other bodies.  All words and pictures by Sandy Allen. Broad Peak was first climbed to the summit by an Austrian expedition in 1957, and there remain many opportunities for technical unclimbed new lines on this mountain.  Our expedition’s main objective was either to try a new unclimbed line on the very steep... Read More

'Robbies revenge', Borkoldoy | montane 07/11/2018


“It’s on!” Robbie’s expression as I said this reminded me of my nephews’ faces when they realised it was Christmas morning. We had all been struck by the look of the ice line that carved a path up the north-east face, but Robbie had been particularly smitten. The object of his desires was a beautiful path of white and blue ice that zig-zagged steeply to the pointed summit of Peak 5044. This mountain was one of the most impressive of a range that wasn’t short of impressive peaks. We were... Read More

Chilling 2 MACC Fund Expedition | montane 06/11/2018

ZANKSAR: Chilling II – A MACC Fund sponsored Expedition

June 2018 saw a small team head to the Lalung Valley in the Zanskar Himalaya to make an attempt on the unclimbed North face of Chiling II (referred to erroneously elsewhere as Z2).  The expedition was led by Alex Mathie, climbing with Matthew Harle. We were supported by big load specialist (high-altitude porter) Karma, dal baht extraordinaire (cook) Narish and first-time LO Jai. Matthew Harle wearing his Icarus Flight insulation and Alpine Stretch Pants We established base camp at the toe of the Lalung glacier at 4200m on 9th June with assistance from local porters. The following day, we established an advanced base camp in... Read More

mulung tokpo MACC Fund Expedition | montane 05/11/2018
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MULUNG TOPKO: A MACC Fund Expedition

Alpine Club member and past VP Derek Buckle writes of the Montane Alpine Club Climbing Fund supported expedition to Mulung Tokpo with the aim of exploring and summiting unclimbed peaks of the Mulung Glacier in the Zanksar region of India During the period between 30th August and 29th September 2018 six members of the Alpine Club flew to New Delhi prior to joining their Liaison Officer, Manu Verma, and continuing on to Leh in Ladakh at 3,500m. With such an altitude gain the team spent two days acclimatising in and around... Read More


MACC Fund: Autumn 17 – Spring 18 Preface

The Montane Alpine Climbing Club Fund  17-18 Season – Malcolm Bass, Alpine Club Member, Ex-MACC Fund Sub Committee Chairman, Montane Athlete, Alpinist.   Thanks to a generous donation from a club member, combined with Alpine Club and Montane recurring funding, we are currently able to support more expeditions than ever before. But we are getting more applications than ever before, and most of them are for appropriate objectives. This is good news in that it shows that exploratory alpinism within the Alpine Club is in rude good health. But it... Read More

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MACC Fund: Conditioning for Exploratory Alpinism

Mike Fletcher is one of the 6-person team who will spend September in Zanskar, in the Indian Himalaya with the objective of making first ascents of hitherto unnamed peaks circa 6000m.  The Montane Alpine Club Climbing (MACC) Fund has provided funding and access to cutting edge gear. Expeditionary Alpinism is a wonderful thing.  It is also a beast of jarring contradictions: Logistical hassle and chaos gives way to serene calm, which in turn balances on a knife edge as long as conditions allow.  The monotony of insertion treks and base-camp... Read More