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First ascent: Mt Gangstang’s North West ridge

Team Montane climber Malcolm Bass and climbing partner Guy Buckingham have just made the first ascent of the beautiful NW Ridge of Gangstang in the Himachal Pradesh Himalaya. They reached the summit on the 9th June 2016 and descended to base camp the next day completing a five day round trip. The headwater of the Thirot Nala – image by Anshul Soni. Gangstang is a classically pyramidal peak which is reminiscent of the Matterhorn. It was first reportedly climbed by Italians in 1945 via the South West Ridge which has... Read More


A Century of Polar Exploration

(Photograph courtsey of Martin Hartley) Robert Peary, the American explorer, claimed he reached the geographic North Pole on April 6, 1909. Although the claim was disputed, the fact they survived at all in such an incredibly hostile and harsh environment is testament to man’s thirst for exploration, for knowledge, and for pushing the human body to the limits. Peary was a smart guy. He had carefully studied Innuit techniques and clothing and replicated them where possible and it served him very well, well, except for losing eight fingers. And by a long... Read More

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“Plans are useless but planning is indispensable” – Dwight D Eisenhower

Team Montane athletes Simon Yearsley & Malcolm Bass offer their tips on how to plan successful, regular winter route dates. #WinterClimbing The biggest obstacle to getting winter routes done is the rest of our lives. Work. Love. Family. Christmas. Houses. Skiing. The second biggest, and far more frustrating, is our climbing partners’ lives. Of course we have our priorities in exactly the right order. But as for them, well they slew wildly between obsessive fanaticism and a total lack of commitment to the cause. Stating the obvious: you can’t climb... Read More

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Winter is coming

Team Montane athletes Malcolm Bass & Simon Yearsley prepare for some good old fashioned climbing and exploring this winter. The first flights of snow have fallen on our hills. Late autumnal storms are battering the west. The sun has lost its warmth. For lovers of winter the pulse is quickening: the object of our desire is suddenly within reach. By walking or running in the hills, every winter’s day can be enjoyed for what it is. Scudding black hail squalls whipping along the ridge, or the calm of muffling, moistening... Read More


Winnie Chang’s Great Himalayan traverse

Everyday there was more snow. Zanskar is a high altitude desert but these late winter storms (this was March) provide the main source of water for the region.* We were on our way up to the Pensi La pass, a gradual inclination all the way up to 4,400 metres. It continued snowing hard into the night and we were just plodding on, weighed down by heavy backpacks. The only lights we could see were from our head torches, all the Buddhist villages were left behind. Now we were in the... Read More


Photographing the hostile Arctic

There are not many people that would relish the thought of spending several months in the extremely hostile conditions of the Arctic. Fortunately for us,Martin Hartley is one of these people. An expedition and adventure travel photographer, Martin first gained public recognition in the world of photography at the age of 17 and now commits himself whole-heartedly to capturing the beauty of unadulterated landscapes and remote communities all over the world. Martin takes some time out to talk to us about his photography and the particular challenges that confronted him... Read More

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An attempt of Janahut

In late May and June 2014 Team Montane members Malcolm Bass and Simon Yearsley made an attempt on the unclimbed Janahut (6,805m). This peak is at the head of the Gangotri glacier and has defied four previous attempts. Janahut was their third choice objective for the trip, having originally sought and been refused permission for Rimo III. Their secondary objective was Chaukhamba IV however once on site, it became clear that in prevailing snow conditions all routes up were unsafe, so the pair obtained permission to attempt Janahut in the... Read More


100,000km solo world circumnavigation halfway point

Australian Benji Rodgers-Wilson is currently halfway through a 100,000km solo world circumnavigation expedition. To date, he has cycled 28,000km and 3,500 nautical miles. At the end of stage 2, he is preparing for the next stage, which includes the daunting feat of rowing across the Atlantic Ocean. At 4,000 nautical miles, that’s no walk in the park. Benji reflects briefly on his highs and lows so far. At the time of writing I’m at about the halfway point, having crossed Australia, the Indonesian Archipelago, Southeast Asia, Southern China, Japan, the Russian... Read More


Masters of the Mountains do it Again

UK mountain biking magazine Singletrack recently tested a number of packable lightweight jackets, labelling our Minimus Jacketwith a coveted ‘Recommended’ award. Tested amongst 13 other jackets ranging from those with a simple DWR coating to fully taped, highly waterproof jackets, reviewer Greg May described the Minimus as packing “enough features into its stripped-down alpine jacket form that it’s hard to want for more”. From the length of the arms and jacket to how small the wrist closures adjusted, Greg’s overall verdict was: “A perfect complement to the British winter.  Fully waterproof, packable and... Read More



Initial analysis of the data collected on the Catlin Arctic Survey, supported by Montane, indicates the Arctic Ocean’s unique water column is altering. Data from Catlin Arctic Survey 2011, collected during an eight-week expedition from March to May, indicates the temperature of Arctic seawater below 200 metres depth has decreased by a ‘surprising’ one degree Celsius in comparison with previous observations. This may conversely be accelerating the Arctic sea ice melt, which could have a knock-on effect for the currents that circulate heat and nutrients around the world’s oceans. Survey... Read More