Ian Almond's account of his Spring 2010 Patagonian expedition:
After arriving in El Chalten in early January and establishing a camp at Rio Blanco and a snow cave at Paso superior. We were set to make attempts on Cerro Fitzroy and surrounding peaks such as Ag Poincenot, Ag Mermoz and Ag Guillaumet. Unfortunately the weather in the form of high winds, rain and snow had other ideas and kept us in camp until the end of the month. Finaly a temporary lull in the poor weather allowed a quick nocturnal ascent of the Amy couloir (300m 65o D+) on the Ag Guillaumet (2579m) we were unable to reach the summit due to the heavily iced summit ridge and in worsening weather we decided to retreat. After a few more days of poor weather the wind started to drop and although it was still snowing and the weather was far from perfect we were able to ascend the Guillot couloir (450m, UIAA 5, 65o/70o TD) again on Ag Guillaumet . After soloing the main couloir we found more favourable conditions on the ridge and were able the reach the summit around 1am in a snow storm but luckily with no wind.
After a rest day at Rio Blanco and a trip to El Chalten for a beer, pizza and a weather report (in that order!). We headed back to camp with the promise of a clear 24 hrs weather window.
After a leisurely climb to the snow cave and a shared pan of smashed potato followed by a couple hours of sleep, we started out for Ag Poincenot (3036m) to attempt the Whillians route (600m, 65o/70o, UIAA 5, TD+). After soloing the first 300m ice ramp we arrived at the base of the "icy chimney†as the sun came up. Putting the rope on here we climbed a thinly iced variation on the right hand side which led after another icy pitch to the base of the southeast ridge and the start of the rock climbing. The rock climbing which was done in crampons and gloves due to the mixed conditions and the low temperature included pitches of UK hard severe. As we climbed the ridge the weather remained good apart from the odd snow flurries and the ever present wind. Yet as we climbed the last pitch to gain the summit the cloud descended and we miss out on the view (oh well maybe next time!). After staying for photos and a power gel we descended into the cloud. After Rappelling the rock ridge and ice ramp we crossed the bergschrund as night fell and started the long slog in deep snow back to the snow cave which we gain 23 and a half hours after leaving it. After a hot tang and some chocolate we started the decent to Rio Blanco arriving back at camp a few hours before the sun came up.
After a long lay in and celebratory pancakes and coffee we set off for el chalten for the weather report (and pizza and beer).
With the weather set to improve we had one more rest day at camp before setting off for the snow cave at Paso. This time the sites were set on the north pillar of Fitzroy. The 350m approach gully which involved a large bergschrund and pitches of poorly protected and thinly iced climbing up to Scottish v was climbed in the early morning. This gully landed us at the base of the pillar a little after sunrise. With 3 rock pitches behind us the climbing started to become increasingly difficult and time consuming and in bluebird skies with no wind we frustratingly retreated.
As the weather was still set fine we rested and retuned to the snow cave to attempt the Northwest ridge of Ag Guillaumet (AKA Brenner ridge 500m F6a+ TD+). The weather was perfect with blue skies and not a breath of wind and with pitch after pitch of fantastic granite cracks and corners we were soon on the summit. From the summit the panoramic views of the nearby Fitzroy and Cerro Torre were amazing.
After a couple of days in camp and with the weather still holding we again set off for the snow cave again. Feeling pretty tried but wanting to make the most of the weather knowing that it could close in anytime and that would be the end of the climbing season. This time we would attempt Ag Mermoz (2732m) by the Argentinean route (600m F6a TD) on the west face. This unfortunately involved gaining a high Paso and a long traverse underneath the west face. We finely gain the base of the route at sunrise. After climbing to within 75m of the summit ridge we went off route in an area of huge hollow flakes and were forced to retreat which involved diagonal rappels and stuck ropes before gaining the base of the route and the long march home.
Following this attempt the weather became more unsettled and the long window we had enjoyed in February finely closed. After spending time eating and rest thoughts turned back to the climbing and it was decided to move the camp from Rio Blanco to the Torre valley. This would aid an attempt on Fitzroy from the other side. So we packed up camp and started ferrying loads and after a gruelling day of load carrying we had a camp in the Torre valley and ready for an attempt on the Supercanaleta (1700m, WI4, 5.10). Yet again the Patagonian weather had other ideas and kept us in camp until the start of March when a 2ish day window of clear weather was forecasted.
As we left camp the wind pick up and the rain started, as we continued up the valley and along the Torre glacier we sheltering behind boulders waiting for the weather report to come true! As the weather eased we decided to carry on and ascend the sitting man ridge to the bivvy spot a short distance from the supercanalate. Here we spent a cold night bivvying with no sleeping bags which we left behind in an attempt to save as much weight as possible. After an early start we made good progress up the main couloir and climbed the first 1000m of gully only to be stopped in our tracks by a very dangers ice feature which after an attempt to surmount it send us packing down a 1000m of rappelling which involved wet snow avalanches and rock fall. The sunset as we made the last rappel back over the bergschrund and after a long cold night shivering we started the decent down the sitting man ridge and the long grind down the Torre glacier. We finely made camp and more importantly food and sleeping bags late that afternoon and promptly collapsed into the tents.
After we had recovered from our attempt on Fitzroy the weather never improved enough for another attempt and we spent the rest of March enjoying Patagonia’s finest bad weather!. Oh well there is always next time (maybe!)
Ian Almond
